Text Susan Jung / Photography Stanley Shin / Styling Nellie Ming Lee
I'm not aware of any culture that doesn't make soup. Recipes can range from easy to difficult, and varieties from light and elegant (consommé, for instance) to extremely filling. These two recipes are at the heartier end of the scale and need only some crusty bread and a green salad to make a satisfying meal.
I love the silky meat you get from oxtails but, if you prefer denser meat, use short ribs instead - the type that's cut across the bone into pieces about 4cm wide.
If using oxtail, have the butcher cut between the joints and saw the largest pieces in half through the bone. Whichever cut of meat you're using, put the pieces in a colander and rinse them well. Bring a large pot of water to the boil then add the oxtail or short-rib pieces. Simmer for one minute then drain in a colander. Rinse out the pot, add fresh water and bring to the boil. Add the oxtail or short-ribs, simmer for one minute then drain again. Rinse the meat under cold running water and drain. Wash out the pot and dry it.
Use a pastry brush to coat the pieces of meat with soy sauce. Heat the oil in the pot and when it's very hot, brown the meat in batches. While the meat is browning, heat a grill pan over a medium flame. Cut the onion in half through the equator, trim off the stems, then peel off the skin. Place the onion cut-side down on the unoiled grill pan and leave it to char to a medium-to-dark brown. Flip the pieces over and char the other side. Remove from the heat. Cut one carrot (no need to peel it) and one celery stalk into 2cm lengths. Cut the tops off the negi. Rinse the barley and drain it, then put it into a pan and add enough water to cover it by 2cm. Bring to the boil then simmer for 15 minutes. Drain it in a colander then rinse with cool water and drain again.
After browning the meat, set it aside and wash out the pot. Pour two litres of water into the pot, add about one teaspoon of salt and bring to the boil. Add the meat, onion halves, chopped carrot and celery, and the negi tops. Bring to the boil then lower the heat, cover partially with the lid and simmer for about two hours, or until the meat is very tender. Take the oxtail or short-rib pieces from the pot, put them into a bowl and leave until just cool enough to handle. If using oxtail, shred the meat; if using short-ribs, cut the meat into rough dice. Discard the bones. Remove the carrot, celery, onion and negi pieces from the pot and discard them. Cut the remaining carrot into 2cm batons, and slice the remaining celery stalk into 5mm-thick pieces. Cut the negi bottoms in half lengthwise, then slice about 5mm thick.
Taste the broth and season with salt and pepper. Put the meat, barley, carrot, celery and negi into the pot and bring to the boil. Lower the heat then simmer until the barley and vegetables are tender. Ladle the ingredients into bowls and serve immediately.
Kabocha is Japanese winter squash with a green rind and orange flesh.
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Cut the kabocha in half and scoop out and discard the seeds and fibres from the cavity. Cut the squash into thick wedges and use a pastry brush to lightly coat the exposed parts with cooking oil. Place the pieces on a roasting pan and bake until tender (about 20 minutes). While the pieces are still warm, scoop as much flesh as possible from the rind.
Put the cooking oil and shallot in a small pan set over a medium flame. When the shallot starts to sizzle, lower the heat and cook, stirring often, until the shallot is golden brown. Strain the vegetable through a small colander set over a bowl to catch the oil. Put the shallot back into the pan (no need to wash it) and cook, stirring constantly, until the shallot is medium brown, taking care not to burn it. Drain on paper towels.
Heat the butter in a pan placed over a low flame. Add the onion and garlic, sprinkle lightly with salt and cook until soft, stirring often. Add the carrot, grated ginger and ground ginger and cook for about a minute, stirring constantly. Add the chicken broth and pumpkin flesh and bring to the boil. Sprinkle lightly with salt then lower the heat and simmer until the carrot is tender. Purée the soup in a food processor until smooth then pour it back into the pan. Add the coconut milk, season to taste with salt, then bring to a simmer. If the soup is too thick, add more chicken broth.
Ladle the soup into bowls and add a spoonful of yogurt. Sprinkle with shallot and coconut flakes and drizzle in some of the oil used to cook the shallot. Serve immediately.
This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as:
Liquid lunch
